VISIT LOCRONAN officially one of the 'most beautiful villages of France', is 15 kilometres to the northwest of Quimper in the Finistere department of western Brittany.
Going back in history more than 2000 years, Locronan was a sacred place for the celts - known as a 'nemeton'. It then became an important religious centre during the middle ages, and an important centre for sail-cloth making for the local ship-building industry during the 16th and 17th centuries.
Each of these epoques has left its mark on the town and region which is of course now better known as a popular tourist destination
LOCRONAN, a short way from the sea on the minor road that leads down from the Crozon peninsula, is a prime example of a Breton town that has remained frozen in its ancient form by more recent economic decline. From 1469 through to the seventeenth century, it was a successful centre for woven linen, supplying sails to the French, English and Spanish navies. It was first rivalled by Vitré and Rennes, before suffering the "agony and ruin" so graphically described in its smallmuseum (Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; €3). As a result, the rich medieval houses of the town centre have never been superseded or surrounded by modern development. Film directors love its authenticity, even if Roman Polanski, filming Tess, deemed it necessary to change all the porches, put new windows on the Renaissance houses, and bury the main square in mud to make it all look a bit more English.
Today Locronan is once more prosperous, with its main source of income the tourists who buy wooden statues carved by local artisans, pottery brought up from the Midi and leather jackets of less specified provenance. This commercialization should not, however, put you off making at least a passing visit, for the town itself is genuinely remarkable, centred around the focal Église St-Ronan. Be sure to take the time to walk down the hill of the rue Moal, where the lovely little stone chapel of Nôtre-Dame de Bonne Nouvelle holds some surprising modern stained glass, and a wooden statue of a depressed-looking Jesus.
Simply to park on the outskirts of Locronan costs €2.50, though at least your ticket remains valid for a full year. The tourist officeadjoins a local history museum (Mon–Sat 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; tel 02.98.91.70.14). The onehotel, du Prieuré, on the edge of town in 11 rue du Prieuré (tel 02.98.91.70.89, www.hotel-le-prieure.com; €55–70; closed mid-Nov to mid-March), is not particularly attractive, but offers well-equipped rooms and has a good restaurant.
Places of Interest
Armorique National Park-
This is one of thirty eight regional nature parks in France. It penetrates deep into Brittany's forested heartland and reached towards the Atlantic to encompass the reef-strewn archipelagos of Ouessant and Sein also the Crozon peninsula. This is a conservation area with forests, lakes, heather and gorse in places. Hilly summits overlook patchwork fields plaited by a maize of rivers lakes and streams. Its two hundred and seventy thousand acres therefore represent many typical Bretton landscapes including islands and open sea with 300 maritime bird species as well as seals and dolphins. Armorique is not just a nature reserve, local villages continue traditional trades, crafts, events and festivals. Museums scattered throughout the region explain various aspects of Bretton culture. The Monts d' Arree region as some of the oldest rocks on earth and the highest hills in Brittany. Keen walkers, anglers, bird watchers and cyclists will find plenty to do here. Country lovers can enjoy driving on clear roads with spectacular views.
Huelgoat -
Ten minutes drive away, Huelgoat stands by the shores of a large lake, surrounded by hilly woodland and is a
popular centre for activity holidays, sailing, fishing with Carp and Perch in the lake. Horse riding, cycling and
walking all catered for locally. Plenty of free car parking, picnic places, woodland walks and paths along the river Argent. An interesting feature is a cluster of huge boulders at the edge of the lake. In the town square there are
Bars, Restaurants and Patisseries together with a small supermarket. There is a weekly market selling fresh fish etc.
Pleyben -
Ten minutes drive away, Pleyben is famous for the massive twin towered church of St Germain with splendid panelling, stained glass windows and decorated roof beams. It is a prosperous town and welcomes visitors with Bars Creperies Restaurants, and souvenir shops, it is possible to watch chocolates and biscuits being made at the local confectioners
Chateauneuf-du-Faou -
Fifteen minutes drive, situated on a wooded ridge along side the Nantes canal, famous for Salmon fishing. A pleasant town with bars, restaurants and open air market. There is also a large supermarket and shops. The church contains frescos by the Pont-Aven artist Paul Serusier.
Chateaulin-
About 20 minutes drive. Chateaulin is a small town where Steamers once came up the Aulne estuary from the Rade de Brest, today the river is tidal as far as Fort-Launay and canalized though Chateaulin, in the spring water churns with Salmon and Trout, a scene of water meadows and steep wooded cliffs. The Chapelle Notre-Dame above the town has a triumphant arch and a fifteen century Calvary.
Quimper -
About 25 minutes drive. Quimper is one of Brittany's most charming cities, excellent for shopping strolling, eating and sight seeing. Explore the old quarter near the junction of the Odet and Steir rivers. Market day's still attract stall holders in traditional Bretton dress. There is a three day folk festival in July. South east of the town centre in Ergue-Armel is the Musee de L-Alambic, a display of stills and apple-presses. Learn about the 300 year old Brandy making tradition with a free tasting. The region towards the coast is typically Breton and its natural and cultural features contribute to its popularity with tourists.l
Crozon -
The Crozon peninsular being part of the Armorique national park, has some wonderful coast scenery and quiet sandy beaches. Camaret-Sur-Mer is a little lobster fishing port and occupies the most westerly tip of the Crozon peninsular. Morgat is a popular holiday spot with curved sand beach backed by pine trees, excellent for water based sports. Pleasure cruisers take visitors round the rocky Cap de la Chevre or to the caves beyond Beg-ar-Gador. In high season a ferry takes you from Morgat to Douararnenez. Le Fret is a small pretty ferry port with views of the Rad de Breast. Le Faou is a pretty village with 16th century jettied houses, half timbered which make a picturesque scene. There are eating places and a covered market containing traditional food shops, good places to buy supplies for a picnic. Visit Poionte des Espagnois for spectacular views, to the east you can see the mysterious lle Longue, a nuclear submarine base.
Locronan
About thirty minutes drive, Locronan is claimed to be the prettiest town in Brittany. The old town has a magnificent cobbled square surrounded buy perfectly preserved mini mansions all pedimented dormers and lop sided timbering, the fifteenth century church is the most striking building on the square. There are craft and souvenir shops catering for tourists with hotels and restaurants.
Landerneau
About thirty five minutes drive, Landerneau stands on the Elorn estuary a pleasant mix of old and new. Especially appealing on market day (Tuesday) when the main square is lively with stalls selling crepes and farmhouse cheeses. There are elegant shops, fine restaurants and has a more cosmopolitan feel that most of the towns in this region.
Morlaix
Thirty minutes drive to the north. Morlaix is a fine old town at the head of a large estuary, it is the largest town in north Finistere, it is noted for good shops, restaurants and shopping malls. The historic quarter of the town captivates visitors with it's quaint alleyway's and steep hills.
Brest
Forty five minutes drive. The town of Brest was destroyed during the second world war and rebuilt in an uninteresting modern style, but offers great shopping opportunities. Anyone who loves ports will want to see the dock yards. There is a good vantage point of the Rad de Brest from the castle which was spared by the bombs. The Oceanpolis on the east side of the port is well worth a visit, not just an aquarium but a huge research centre and exhibition of sea life and all it's aspects, with huge tanks of fish and sea mammals. The fine arts museum Musee des Beaux-arts is worth finding for it's collection of Pont-Aben school paintings. The Brest castle now houses a museum and offices of the harbour authorities.
Roscoff
A 45 minute drive to the North coast. Roscoff is not just a ferry port, the pretty old fishing harbour remains unspoilt. It is one ofFrance ’s main shellfish ports. The old town runs along the back of the bay and is little more than a single street. There are many eating places and bars. The splendid church of Notre-Dame-de-kroaz-Batz has one of Finistère's finest belfries and is worth a visit. A 15 minute boat trip to the island of Ile de Batz is a must, popular for its sandy beaches ideal for sailing. It is possible to visit the lighthouse. Tourists are well catered for with eating places and bars.
Concarneau
One hours drive. Concarneau is a lively old fishing port harbour. A popular tourist destination boat trips are available to to smaller islands off shore where sandy beaches are found. The Ville Close or old walled town is on an island linked to the old town by a bridge and gateway, a picturesque place interesting buildings and winding street. Guided tours are available. Much to see and do here with eating places and bars to sample some of that locally caught fish. The coast line all along back toward Quimper is worth seeing.
Guerlesquin
A pretty little village, with a wonderful french market held all year on a Monday, throughout the summer the market has lots to offer from juggling, clog making, basket weaving, to watching the locals choose their new hens, a great atmosphere and a true taste of Brittany.